The Best Gaming PC Build For $800 in 2017

In $400-$800, Custom Builds by Branton1471 Comments

best gaming pc build 800 gtx 1070

Trying to build yourself the best $800 gaming PC possible? With that kind of budget, you can build an EPIC gaming PC that won’t need any upgrades for a long time! This build is fully loaded with an AMD R5 1600, a 6GB GTX 1060, 8GB of DDR4 RAM and 1TB of storage to make sure you don’t fall short anytime soon.

All of this gives you a seriously badass custom gaming PC that will help you destroy the competition without doing the same to your wallet! It’ll be able to easily handle AAA games in 1080p at 60fps or better, and it’ll even give you solid 1440p performance as well!

A budget of $800 is going to get you the core parts you need to build a really solid mid-level gaming PC with a lot of upgrade potential – one that won’t need any kind of upgrades for quite a while. This beast will be relevant for at least 1-2 years, which is saying something when you’re talking about technology in 2017.

Have a question? Ask me in the comment section!

-A small Phillips screwdrivers
-Anti-static wristband (optional but suggested)

That’s about all you’re going to need, seriously. Building a PC is a pretty simple process that requires your time more than anything else. But, watching a video walkthrough or reading a guide always helps, so I’ve added both of those in the next tab! There’s also this checklist which you can download and use to make sure that you have everything you need 🙂

Here are the basic steps that I follow when building:
-Install the Power Supply into the Case
-Install the processor (make sure the arrows line up)
-Install RAM (make sure they are in the right way before you try to seat them!)
-Mount the CPU cooler
-Place the rear I/O plate
-Mount the motherboard to the case (get your i/o ports through and use the middle standoff as a guide)
-Plug your GPU in
-Install any storage
-Plug everything into the appropriate spots
-Turn it on / Install OS & drivers!

In-depth Walkthrough

Instead of me typing out a ton of words to explain this process, why not watch this video put together by He does a great job of explaining everything in detail, and is going to get you running in 30 minutes.

Or, if you did want a ton of words, I’ve put together somewhat of a crash course to building your gaming PC that you might want to check out.

Keep in mind that it’s not the exact same build, but the process is really similar. There’s really only 1 way to do things, and it’s pretty hard to mess anything up if you’re being careful.

The Best $800 Gaming PC Build

Updated: August 17th, 2017

  • Corsair Carbide Spec 02

    Mid tower ATX case, great layout and cable management. Comes with 2 120mm fans.


    AM4 socket mATX motherboard, B350 chipset. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 and 4x USB 3.0, built in audio and integrated ethernet.

  • AMD R5 1600

    3.6GHz processor, 6-cores 12-threads. Comes with a CPU cooler.

  • Zotac GTX 1060 Mini

    6GB GDDR5, 5 display outputs, amazing 1080p and even 1440p performance!
    **Due to a massive demand for mid-range graphics cards, RX 570/580 and GTX 1060/1070 cards may be more expensive than normal.

  • EVGA 500 B1

    500W power supply, 80% efficiency, 3-year warranty.

  • 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 RAM

    1x8GB 2666MHz DDR4 RAM, CL16.

  • Seagate 1TB HDD

    3.5 inch, 7200 RPM, 64MB cache, quiet!

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Below you’ll find some suggested add-ons for this build, some I’ll mention more in-depth further down this page, but some are pretty self-explanatory like optical (DVD/CD) drives. Although not entirely necessary, optical drives can sometimes come in handy and I strongly recommended having one; if you have an old PC kicking around, it’s optical drive will more than likely work for you and you won’t need to buy a new one.

  • Windows 10 (USB Installer)

    Windows 10 is your best bet when it comes to picking an operating system. This version is a USB installer.

  • Samsung 24x CD DVD±R/RW kit

    Mounts in an internal 5.25″ bay. Comes with mounting hardware & cables. An optical drive isn’t necessary, but if you’re installing your OS from a disc you’ll need it.

  • Samsung Ultra-Slim External CD DVD±R/RW

    A lot of people are moving away from internally mounted optical drives, and it’s easy to see why! This one is definitely one of the cheaper & better external optical drives to consider.

  • TP-LINK TL-WDN4800

    Internally mounted 2.4GHz / 5GHz N900 WiFi adapter. Required to use WiFi.


When you’re picking parts to build yourself a gaming PC there are lots of things to consider. For instance, do you plan on upgrading it in the future? Do you just want what you can get now, or do you want to eventually overclock your processor? Each path gives you a lot of new things to consider to effectively balance price with performance. But, why do all that when you could have me do it for you?!

Keep in mind that the price listed above is for the core components only, you will still need an operating system, and any other peripherals you don’t currently have.

Corsair’s Carbide Spec-02 case is an awesome choice at this level as it gives you everything you’ll need and a bit more for an awesome price. If you’re not a fan of this case, there are lots of other options available like the NZXT S340 or the Phanteks P400 just to name a couple. If you need a hand picking out a case, feel free to ask me in the comment section!

The MSI B350 PRO-VDH is a great mATX motherboard for the price and it’s giving you all of the features that you’ll need, like integrated audio, a built-in ethernet controller, 4x USB 3.0 ports, 4x USB 2.0, 4x SATA ports, support for up to 4 sticks of DDR4 RAM and lots of room for future expansion. The B350 chipset does support overclocking on AMD’s Ryzen processors, which means you don’t need to upgrade to a more expensive board if overclocking was your plan.

AMD’s new 6 core/12 thread Ryzen 5 1600 is an awesome processor that won’t have any issues with gaming or with content creation. It supports overclocking, but you really don’t need to overclock this processor to get great performance out of it anyways. It comes with a CPU cooler that will be more than sufficient, so you won’t need an aftermarket one, but you’re free to upgrade to something like the Cryorig H7 if you wanted a better cooling profile. Pound for pound, the R5 1600 is the best mid-range CPU for gaming right now.

The GTX 1060 is great graphics card in both price and performance, it’s easily the best options at this level without going too crazy on cost. EVGA’s GTX 1060 SC is small but still runs great and doesn’t get too hot. It offers 6GB of GDDR5 VRAM, 5 display outputs, and a small profile that’ll fit inside any case.  This GTX 1060 is easily capable of supporting VR headsets like the Vive or Rift as well as getting 60fps in most AAA games. If you’re put off by the small size, feel free to swap it out for a larger option!

There’s a lot of relatively high-performance parts in this build, so it would be safe to assume it would require massive amounts of power, right? Wrong! We really only need a few hundred watts of power to run this build full-out, so just to be safe we’re going with a 500W B2 power supply from EVGA. Although it’s not a top-tier power supply, it’s nowhere near a bad unit either, it’s mid-level, very reliable, and comes with a great 3-year warranty.

When it comes to RAM, 8GB is all you need for gaming this far into 2017, really. There will come a time (sooner than later) when most games will demand maybe 12GB or more, but that time hasn’t come just yet. Even some of the very few games that currently “require” 16GB run perfectly fine with an 8GB setup. With that in mind, if you’re like me and you end up running Chrome with 100 different tabs open while gaming at the same time, you might want to consider upgrading to 16GB.

I didn’t pull any punches when it came to squeezing every ounce of power from your $800 budget, and you will not be disappointed! This build is easily capable of running pretty much whatever you throw at it on at least high settings in 1080p at 60fps or better! That being said, I did run over the budget a bit due to how things are priced right now, but that is almost unavoidable without losing way more in terms of performance.

Operating System

When it comes to picking an operating system, you have quite a few options laid out before you. But, the best / easiest two are either Windows or something Linux-based.

If you’re really strapped for cash, or you really just don’t like Windows, Ubuntu is a great option because it’s entirely free, and it’s really solid/secure. It’s a Linux-based OS and can play any game that supports Linux. More and more games are adding Linux support, but it definitely sucks when a game you’ve been waiting forever for ends up being Windows only…

windows-10-homeThe more expensive option is buying a copy of Windows. With DirectX 12 becoming more common and the Skylake-based processors basically demanding Windows 10, you might want to consider jumping on that right away, but it’s ultimately your call.

Installing your operating system can be done in a couple of different ways, either by DVD or a USB flash drive that you either create yourself or buy. Either will get the job done, but going for Windows & using the retail DVD (or USB flash drive) is going to be the easiest – any cheap DVD drive will work.

If you want to create your own USB flash drive to install something like Ubuntu from, you can find some decent instructions here.


If this is the absolute first gaming PC you’ve ever owned, then chances are high that you don’t have a very good keyboard + mouse combo, or that your monitor is sub-par to really enjoy your experience.

If this is the scenario that you’re in, then we have some really awesome suggestions for you to consider. Each peripheral was hand-picked for this build and they’re all guaranteed high quality.

  • Acer GN246HL

    24″, 1080p 144Hz, 1ms response time – Great for gaming!

  • Corsair K55 RGB

    An awesome RGB keyboard using rubber dome keys. Lots of tactile feedback.

  • Razer Mamba Tournament Edition

    Chroma RGB lighting, awesome sensor accuracy, very comfortable to use.

  • Creative Sound BlasterX H5 TE

    Easily one of the best gaming headsets for under $100 and it’s not going to let you down!

  • Logitech Z623 2.1 sound system

    2.1 channel, 200W RMS/400W peak. If you like bass, these are the speakers+sub you want.


Since the motherboard in this build does not have built-in WiFi (most don’t) you will need a WiFi adapter if you plan on using a wireless internet connection. That said, if you have the option to run a wired connection, do that instead because it will be faster & more reliable.

You have a couple options, you could get a decent USB-based WiFi adapter for about $20 that would work alright. Or you can get an internally mounted WiFi adapter that costs roughly $35, and will be more reliable than the USB option.

  • TP-LINK TL-WDN4800

    Internally mounted WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz or 5GHz.


    USB WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz


If you came here looking to build yourself a badass $800 gaming PC, I hope you found what you were looking for! This build puts out a lot of power for the price and, in my opinion, it’s probably the best value when it comes to 1080p gaming, or even 1440p!

Like I said at the beginning of this build guide, it’s going to take more than a year for this build to need any kind of serious upgrades; and even then, you might only need to throw another 8GB of RAM in there to maintain relevance.

All-in-all, you will be hard pressed to build a better gaming PC for under 800 dollars, unless you’re building it with a specific game or purpose in mind! Don’t forget to leave a comment below, and share this with your friends!

Get This $800 Build!

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The first game I ever played on PC was Ultima Online way back in 1999, since then I've been hooked on PC gaming and putting together awesome builds! Thanks for stopping by!

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1,471 Comments on “The Best Gaming PC Build For $800 in 2017”

  1. Thanks 🙂 sry for such a noob question just want to make sure i build a system that i can upgrade in future & meet the power requirements.

    1. No problem! It wasn’t a noob question at all, just a question needing an answer in my opinion. With 600W you should be good to go! What kind of upgrades were you thinking of adding?

      1. Branton Thanks for all your help i got stuff on the way to build the 800$ gamer. 🙂 To answer your question the upgrades would be to cpu + gpu as needed. Seeing this build uses a LGA 1151 socket it means i can go up to the I7 one day. For anyone having trouble working out power supply needs as I did. This is a good calculator if you research or know how to use it. It helped me a ton along with Branton guiding me. Quote from Branton as a general rule you only really have to consider the CPU/GPU as they’re the 2 biggest power draws, and then add 150-200W to be safe. Good input thanks again I’m learning so much. I have another question for you Branton or well a favour to ask? Could you please give me a recommendation on a new SSD PSU & GPU for this pc I’m on. I want it to last a bit longer the psu is going bad & the hdd is very slow 5400 rpm WD Green 1TB. I would like to replace the HDD with a SSD maybe the OCZ larger capacity. I understand it will only be on a sata 2.0 interface but it’s sure to be faster then this 5400rpm drive. My main concern is I will pick the wrong graphics card for this and create a bottleneck effect that I have been reading about. I want to retain the CPU it has. Here are all the specs of my pc it’s the last pre fab pc I will ever own thanks to you 🙂 Sorry for the massive post & hope i’m not asking to much. Thanks again Will. My pc specs are here

        1. Not a problem, Will!

          Personally, I would suggest going with what’s listed above with the plan of eventually running the whole build or something similar – running the SSD on SATA 2.0 will be way faster than your current HDD just like you mentioned. Unfortunately, the CPU in your current rig is going to create a small “bottleneck” in a lot of CPU intensive games, you’ll likely see some frame drops and less than ample performance, but it shouldn’t be too bad.

          You’re not asking too much at all, Will! Sorry about the delayed reply, had to get a broken leg tended to 🙂

  2. So if I am correct by buying everything when I click the buy this build or what ever I got everything I need to build the computer.

  3. I’m looking for something that could run the newest games coming out this year ( battlefield 1, skyrim remastered, Ark, etc) this could do that, 60fps 1080p no problems?

    1. Hey Wes,

      This build can easily max out most new games in 1080p, some will give it issues – mostly Forza Horizon 3.

  4. Hello Branton,
    This will be the first computer I’ll be building. I’m a complete noob and don’t really know what the parts are for and what they do. I’ll figure that bit out on my own but in the mean time I’m looking for some reassurance. I currently have an (outdated) HP Dv7 laptop and I haven’t upgraded because I fear that if I build my own computer it won’t run as smoothly without complicated issues as this manufactured works-straight-out-of-the-box computer has. I really want to get into gaming and a self-built PC appeals to me because of amazing bang for the buck and how people always talk about self-builts being ‘future proof’. Will I run into any problems after the computer has been built, assuming it was put together correctly? Would I be better off with a store bought? I don’t want to spend $800+ for a killer machine if it will only last me a little while before it requires complicated maintenance or replacing of parts.
    I’m seeing a lot of recent replies and it’s awesome that you’re so helpful! I figured I’d take advantage of the generosity 😛

    1. Hey Blake,

      Assuming everything is assembled correctly – which is much easier than it sounds – then you won’t really run into any issues that you wouldn’t potentially find in a prebuilt PC. The whole “future proof” thing to me means a build that’s using the newest / strongest components available at whatever price point, which is kind of something you can find in a prebuilt desktop but you’ll be paying quite a bit more for the same stuff; compare this $1100 prebuilt to my $800 build for instance, the biggest differences are that the prebuilt comes with Windows 10 (+$110), another 8GB of RAM (+$35-40), and a cheap keyboard + mouse combo (+$20). I wouldn’t say that you’d be better off with a store bought PC as the extra you’d spend on it could instead be invested into stronger components or peripherals that you may need/want. Regarding the lifespan of a build like this, it’ll easily last you a couple years before you might need to consider upgrading the graphics card, which is as simple as uninstalling the old drivers, unplugging the old card, plugging the new card in, then installing the new drivers. I know how hard it can be to make sure you’re getting the right thing, so I try to lend a hand whenever I can 🙂

      I hope that helps!

    1. Hey Ryan,

      You will, but everything you need will come with the various components assuming you pick what I’ve suggested 🙂

  5. Hey,
    I want to order this pc but the MSI H110M Gaming cant be send to the Netherlands,
    Do you know any for the same price with the same performence that can be used in this build?

    1. Hey Rick,

      There are lots of alternative mobos, but I don’t know which one’s you’ll be able to get in the Netherlands… Basically, you’re looking for either an mATX or ATX mobo running either the B110 or H170 chipset.

  6. Hey Brandon I’m just wondering if this is definitely the best build for $800 cause it’s taken me months to save up and at this moment I can’t find anything better just incase so I know I’m getting my money’s worth with the best material posible, thx also do you reckon I’ll get more out of my money if I save a bit more and go to the thousands dollar build?

    1. Hey Corey,

      I’d like to think it is, and I think a fair amount of others would agree with me. The fact that you can’t find anything better should tell you all you need to know 🙂 I really don’t want to push you in one direction or the other, but the $1k build would definitely give you more performance, it’s also entirely up to you if you want to save up a bit more for it.

  7. None of the parts came with a SATA data cable. Do I need them for the SSD and HDD? I bought EXACTLY what was listed

    1. Well, that’s no good. You should have gotten 2 SATA cables with your case.. Shipping mixups happen from time to time, if you’re 100% certain that the SATA cables aren’t in your case’s box, then I would contact the seller on Amazon. I’ve even bought cases from physical stores that were missing components.. Sorry about the confusion.

  8. Hey Branton!
    I ordered everything and put the entire computer together. It was a lot easier than expected – everything booted up. Unfortunately, however, absolutely NOTHING shows on the monitor. The ‘EZ debug LEDs’ are all off suggesting that it detects the VGA, DRAM, and CPU. I’ve tried everything Google suggested included removing the RAM and putting them back in various orders. Please help me troubleshoot this.

    1. Apparently the monitor has to be hooked up to the GPU instead of the motherboard. Everything else works perfect! Thank you for this build!

    1. Hey Maxwell,

      You could for sure, but it’s really not necessary in a build like this 🙂 I mean, if you really wanted to get technical, there are a lot of upgrades that you could spend a little more money on!

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