Whether you’re completely new to the PC scene or just building in general, learning how to build a gaming PC can seem like a really daunting process. But, I’m probably not the first person and I probably won’t be the last to tell you that it’s way easier than it looks.
This walkthrough aims to serve as not only a crash course to building an awesome gaming PC but hopefully as a reference tool if you get stuck along the way or you just need to double check something.
From assembly to drivers, we have a lot to cover! So, without wasting any more time let’s jump right in with a basic overview of the components we’ll be using before moving onto the more advanced (and fun) parts the build!
Before you jump in head first, you should probably make sure that you have at least a basic grasp of what the individual components inside of your PC do and how they function together to make it all work. If you don’t care about this stuff, well, you should still read this section anyways!
I’ve also put together a checklist that you can use to make sure you’ve got all of the basic components that you need, you can download it by right clicking this link and clicking “save link as…”.
When it comes to gaming, you’re generally going to be looking for the strongest “single core” performance that you can find within your price range. More often than not this will be an Intel CPU as they’re generally putting up the best numbers in terms of gaming performance as of right now.
Your processor is one of the last things you want to skimp in a gaming PC build, but you don’t want to go over the top either. Most of us don’t need to spend that extra $80-$100+ on an i7 over an i5, that little bit of performance you’ll gain just isn’t worth the cost yet – not unless you’re streaming, recording/editing/rendering gameplay, or other CPU intensive tasks, then you might want to consider the i7 upgrade.
One thing to keep in mind is that processors use different types of sockets that are only compatible with the right motherboard, the 6th generation Intel i3, i5, and i7 (like the i5 6600) use the LGA 1151 socket, for instance. Where the older AMD FX 6300 uses the AM3 socket. When picking a processor, make sure it shares the same socket as the motherboard that you plan on using.
Lastly, if you’re planning on overclocking your CPU, you have to make sure that you have the right tools for the job. Not actual tools… But the right model of CPU and a motherboard which supports overclocking. With Intel CPUs you have to get one with a “K” after the model number, like the i5 6600K. This means that the chip has been tested and proven strong enough to support the stress that overclocking creates. When it comes to AMD CPUs, pretty much anything can be overclocked assuming you have a good aftermarket cooler.
Picking the right motherboard usually means finding one that offers the features you’re going to use, and the ones you potentially see yourself using at some point. This includes things like the proper socket for your CPU, the right chipset to support your CPUs features, enough SATA headers for your storage, the audio support that you need, and the look you’re after.
Desktop motherboards come in 4 primary sizes, mini-ITX, micro-ATX, ATX, and extended-ATX, with mITX being for small HTPCs or other compact designs, and eATX being so big that most of us will never have to use one. There are no real standards for size specifications within these classifications either, and it’s very common to see differences in width or height when comparing 2 different, but “same sized” motherboards. Micro-ATX and ATX motherboards are the most common and this is more than likely what you’ll be using in your build.
Larger profile motherboards will generally have more room for expansion for obvious reasons, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find say an mATX motherboard with roughly the same amount of slots/ports as an ATX motherboard if you were trying to build a more compact PC in an mATX-sized case.
To summarize, your motherboard has to support what you’re going to be adding into your PC, it has to be the right size for your case, but other than that you don’t have to spend an arm and a leg on your mobo as most $50-$120 units will work great. If you’re planning on overclocking, you have to pick a motherboard with the proper chipset that supports overclocking. The current generation of CPUs running the LGA 1151 socket (like the i5 6600K) require the Z170 chipset to be overclocked.
I don’t personally get into the old AMD vs. Nvidia debate, and I simply let benchmarks do the thinking for me a lot of the time. If one side produces higher numbers than the other on a consistent basis, great! But, if I were to not want to pick the better performer based on a name, well, that would just be silly.
Graphics cards are similar to CPUs in the sense that you can’t compare different brands “number for number” – an 8GB RX 480 isn’t automatically better than the 6GB GTX 1060, for instance. Again, another reason why it’s best to watch/read benchmarks when it comes to picking your graphics card, make sure its the best performer within your price range.
You can usually expect to invest a big portion of your budget into your graphics card, it’s not uncommon to spend 25% or more on it alone.
You don’t need insane amounts of RAM to achieve that nice smooth 60fps experience that you’re aiming for, though, 8-16GB is the perfect amount depending on your budget. If you’re doing a lot of multitasking, you definitely want to be closer to 16 than 8.
We’re at the stage now where DDR4 RAM is the standard in new builds as the most recent Intel CPUs essentially demand it and the motherboards which are compatible with the new Intel CPUs are usually only compatible with DDR4 RAM – sorry, but your old sticks of DDR3 won’t cut it. Luckily, RAM is relatively cheap compared to other PC components and its only getting cheaper.
There are quite a few different speeds of RAM, with higher speed RAM being more pricey. Faster RAM also comes with increased latency and unless you’re buying premium, a CL14 stick of 8GB 2400MHz would be a better choice than say CL16 8GB 3000MHz – plus, your motherboard has to support what your RAM can do, it your RAM will just clock down to your motherboard’s max.
Standard hard drives are almost always the most cost effective storage solution, while being the slowest internally mounted option. They’re great for storing music, movies, and pretty much anything else you would want to store.
Solid state drives, or SSDs, are the fastest storage option that us consumers have access to, but they’re also the most costly with a 120GB SSD running roughly the same cost as a 1TB HDD. Because of their speed, solid state drives work best as your “boot drive” and a place to store your essential programs and most importantly your operating system.
Running a combination of an HDD and SSD is common practice to get the best of both worlds, both room and speed. If you’re just looking to run an SSD as a “boot drive” only, 120GB will be more than enough to suit your needs.
Like almost any other computer component, power supplies come in a few different styles, non-modular, semi-modular and modular are all terms you might read on a power supplies spec sheet. The difference is that non-modular power supplies’ cabling is permanently attached, semi-modular supplies only have a 1 permanently attached, and modular power supplies can be completely customized to suit your needs.
When you’re picking out your power supply, you can usually add the TDP of your CPU + Graphics card(s), add ~200W and you’ll be good to go forever. This is the last part you want to skimp on as it could take your entire PC with it if it shorts! That said, it pays to have a good power supply.
Picking the right case isn’t as simple as just how it looks, though, and there are a few things you should take into consideration before making your final decision. Airflow is one of the biggest factors you should consider when picking out your case, without proper airflow your components run hotter and ultimately don’t last as long as they would otherwise.
There are also many different sizes of cases with support for different sizes of motherboards. This is something else you have to consider as some cases might be too small for your motherboard or other components, or they might be way too big for what you need. You usually want to match up your case size with your motherboard; but in some instances, you can use smaller motherboards in bigger cases without any issue.
Another thought to keep in mind is the location of the front i/o panel, and the connections that it supplies you with. Think of where your case will be located, would it be more convenient to have that i/o panel on the front or the top of the case, or maybe the side? All of these are options and having the i/o panel in a bad spot could negatively impact your experience, which is definitely not what we want! When it comes to the connections, you generally want a couple USB 3.0 (blue ports) and at least 3.5mm audio in / mic ports.
A lot of cases come packing fans with LED lights, more often than not these lights are only a single color and this can sometimes really suck when you like the case but not the color… Or does it? Nope! Case fans are super easy to change and there are lots of aftermarket options available in both single color and RGB configs, but there’s a lot to consider when picking fans also, so I’ll cover them in more depth further down.
Lastly, lots of cases come without a 5.25″ bay for optical drives (DVD, CD, etc), this is partly due to internal drives becoming obsolete and partly for you to fit bigger radiators for your cooling system or whatever else you might want or need to mount there. If you use an internal optical drive on a regular basis, you definitely want to make sure that your case has a 5.25″ bay.
To recep, you want a case that YOU like the looks of, has ample airflow, a conveniently placed i/o panel with the connections that you’ll need and most importantly room for everything that you plan to mount inside.
CPU coolers work to pull the heat generated by your processor away to be sucked out as exhaust air. Case fans work to ensure that you get enough air into your case, and that enough air is exhausted out.
There’s a wide array of aftermarket CPU coolers available for you to choose, from basic air cooling units like the Cryorig H7, to more intricate liquid cooling units like the Corsair H100i. But, not every cooler will fit into every fcase, and you have to make sure that you have the room for the radiator or heatsink that you’re going to install.
Case fans are often what gives a PC it’s visual accenting with the use of LED-lit fans. Some people like them, some people don’t. Whichever you are, there are definitely going to be some aftermarket fans that you’ll like, whether that’s visually or in terms of performance.
Now that the basics are out of the way, you should have a pretty good idea of the different components going into your new gaming PC, so now it’s time to get into the fun stuff – finally building your new gaming PC!
Before you jump in and start ripping boxes apart in a mad rush to get everything up and running as quickly as possible, stop! First, you really have to clean a couple of those cans up and maybe put those dishes in the dishwasher, that way we’ll have enough rroom to operate! We need lots of room to make sure everything goes smoothly.
Next, you want to make sure that you have the right tools in order – the right tools consist of a phillips screwdriver… It’s a lot, I know 🙂 Other things that might help would be a small flash light, some cable ties/zip ties for cable management, and a pair of needle nose pliers just in case.
If you’re going to be standing on carpet while building your new PC, but you have the option to stand on some hardwood of laminate instead, do that. Not only does it make it harder to lose screws & such, but you generate much less static when you’re not on carpet, and static is the enemy of your new PC! If this isn’t an option, or even if you’re feeling extra cautious, you will want to pick up an anti-static wristband.
Ok, we’re still not done preparing yet, but we’re getting closer and closer to the fun stuff with every paragraph!
Now that we have a clean workspace, it’s time to start slowly unpacking your components. Personally, I like to unpack everything completely before moving on, but feel free to unpack things as you need them. The big thing is to keep any hardware that comes with your components in their original bags and with the component they came with – this will make your life much easier in about 5 minutes.
Next, you want to pull out the motherboard’s manual (at the very least) and read through it a bit, or just find the diagrams which show where you’ll be plugging things in – all motherboard manuals have diagrams like these and they’re crucial if you want your build to go smooth! You’re going to have to refer to the motherboard’s manual a few times while putting your PC together, so keep it somewhere handy.
Time to build!
The moment we’ve been waiting seemingly forever for is finally here! Time to put this beast together and see what it can do! Just follow along with the 5 steps below and you’ll be up and running in no time!
I will have a video outlining this process sooner than later. Hopefully sometime in December!
Personally, I like to use the motherboard’s box as a place to sit the motherboard while I’m installing the initial components, you might find this works better and also protects your mobo from damage during this phase of the build. Moving on!
First, you’ll want to install your processor by opening the locking arms, removing the black plastic cover and slowly lowering the CPU into the socket making sure to match up the arrows (one on the CPU and one on the mobo). Once your CPU is in place, you can lock it down using the tension arms to secure it.
Next, you’ll want to install your RAM into the appropriate slots. Usually this is the 1st and 3rd, or 2nd and 4th slots, but your motherboard’s manual will tell you exactly which ones to use. Also, keep in mind that there’s a notch in the socket and on the actual stick of RAM that you must line up for the RAM to go in properly (or at all).
Now you’ll want to mount your CPU cooler, if you’re using the stock cooler you don’t have to worry about thermal paste, but if you’re using an aftermarket cooler this is when you’ll apply a pea-sized drop of thermal paste to your CPU before mounting the cooler. removing the fans temporarily is often a good idea as it’ll give you much more room to work, and putting the fans back on isn’t too difficult once the motherboard has been mounted.
Lastly, you’ll want to take your motherboard’s I/O shield that it came with, and push it into the opening in the rear of your case – some will mount from the front and some will mount from the rear.
Done! Your motherboard is setup and ready to be mounted. That wasn’t too hard, now was it?
Now it’s time to double check that the standoffs inside of your caseare positioned correctly for the size of motherboard we’re using – chances are you’re using an ATX motherboard in an ATX case and the standoffs will already be good to go, but double check just to make sure 🙂
If your standoffs are all in order, it’s now time to start lowering that mobo into your case, making sure to feed the various ports on the i/o panel through the i/o shield before securing the motherboard to the case using the screws it came with.
Now would be a good time to put your CPU cooler’s fan(s) back on and plug it into the “cpu_fan” header.
Another step done! We’re getting close now!
Now it’s time to mount your graphics card, the beautiful thing that it is. This part is super easy, but it can be a little annoying sometimes as well. We’ll be plugging the graphics card into an open x16 PCIe port, I’m sure you know what it looks like based on what the graphics card’s connection looks like, if you don’t there’s a diagram above under the “motherboard” tab which shows you what it looks like. You’ll want to make sure to start from the rear, fitting the display outputs through your i/o shield before pushing the graphics card into place. Once it’s in place, secure it in with any hardware you removed to install it, and voila, graphics card installed! Well, it will need power, but we’ll get to that part enough.
Now you can lock in any HDDs or SSDs you might have ready to install, make sure the ports are facing the non-windowed side of your case for easier cable management. Some cases will use hardware to secure your drives, but some will use toolless designs requiring no hardware.
If you’re using an internally mounted optical drive, now if the time when you’ll want to slide it into position in your 5.25″ bay – some cases will have you mount it from the front, some will mount from the rear.
Done and done! On to step #4!
It’s not too hard to have relatively decent cable management if you make sure to use the tools at hand, like any ties you have have, and the little eyelets that’ll be all over the backside of your case (behind your motherboard).
Pretty much all of your cables will run behind your motherboard before coming back out to plug into it, and this is the best way to ensure a clean looking build.
There is no particular order in which you should plug your cables in, it just depends on your motherboard’s setup and the orientation of your components. The main thing is that everything that needs power, gets power, and everything that needs to be plugged in, is.
- 24-pin ATX power
- 4/6-pin CPU power
- Graphics card (sometimes it takes 2 connections)
- HDD and SSD (both require SATA power and SATA data to the motherboard)
- Optical drive (same power as HDD/SSD, also requires SATA data to motherboard)
- Fans / CPU cooler
- Front I/O connections (your motherboard’s manual will tell you where/how they go)
Now that you have everything supplied with power, it’s time for the moment of truth! Plug your power supply into the wall, flip the switch, and press the power button! Everything should buzz to life and look like it’s working!
If everything worked, we’re about to move onto the final step, so lets go! Turn that idling PC off, hook up your monitor (to the graphics card, not the motherboard), keyboard and mouse, and get ready to sit around and wait!
Now that you have your monitor hooked up, your keyboard and mouse plugged in, and your big boy pants on after just assembling your own computer, it’s time to get technical!
You’ll want to reboot/boot your PC and enter the BIOS, this is done by hitting a key during the first loading screen, sometimes its “del” sometimes its “F9”, it just depends on the make of your motherboard – the manual will tell you which key to press.
Once you’re into the BIOS, you’ll want to navigate into the “boot/startup” section and select either your optical drive, or USB flash as your primary boot source, depending on what kind of Windows installer you picked out. Make sure you hit “f10” (usually) to save, exit the BIOS, and reboot.
Now you’ll want to put your operating system installer in, whether that’s a USB flash drive or DVD, when your PC boots it will ask if you want to boot from the installer and you want to hit “yes”. From here you just want to follow the on-screen prompts to install your OS, just make sure you select your preferred boot drive as the install destination if you’re using more than 1 drive.
Upon installing, Windows should grab the majority of the basic drivers that you need to get up and running, but sometimes it will miss something crucial like a LAN driver, which makes it so you can’t access the internet to install/update other drivers, in this case, you’ll have to use the motherboard’s disc to install those drivers and update them later. This is why it’s a good idea to have a cheap external optical drive kicking around at the very least.
Assuming you were able to successfully install Windows and get your drivers updated, guess what? You just built and setup your very own gaming PC! How does it feel? Probably really nerdy, no doubt.
Well, that’s that! Now you’re up and running and it’s time to get gaming! I bet it wasn’t even half as difficult as you thought it was going to be before we started, was it?
One last suggestion before you start downloading every game possible overnight, Windows Defender is pretty decent but you definitely want to consider adding another layer of defense with another anti-virus program. Avira is really decent and you can get it for completely free, it’s what I use and I’ve never had an issue!
I hope that you found this guide useful and that it succeeded in getting you through the build process with a minimal amount of frustration! If you have any questions about anything in this guide, feel free to ask me about it in the comment section!
If you’re reading this before checking out my custom builds, you should definitely check them out! From cheap builds for $400 to insanely powerful builds for $2500 and up, you’ll no doubt be able to find one to fit your needs 🙂