The Best Gaming PC Build For Under $800

In $400-$800, Custom Builds by Branton1234 Comments

best 800 dollar gaming pc build featured image
best gaming pc build 800 gtx 1060

Trying to build yourself the best $800 gaming PC possible? With that kind of budget, we can build ourselves an EPIC gaming PC that won’t need upgrades for a long time! Fully loaded with a brand new “Kaby Lake” i5 7500, a 6GB Gigabyte GTX 1060 G1, 8GB of RAM and over a TB of storage.

All of this gives you a seriously badass PC that will help you destroy the competition without doing the same to your wallet! It’ll be able to easily handle AAA games in 1080p, and it’ll even deliver very solid 1440p performance thanks to the 6GB GTX 1060!

A budget of $800 is going to get us all the parts we need to build a really solid mid-level gaming PC with a lot of upgrade potential – but it won’t need any kind of upgrades for quite a while. This beast will be relevant for well over a year, which is saying something when you’re talking about technology.

Have a question? Ask me in the comment section!

-A small Phillips screwdrivers
-Anti-static wristband (optional but suggested)
-Patience

That’s about all you’re going to need, seriously. Building a PC is a pretty simple process that requires your time more than anything else. But, watching a video walkthrough or reading a guide always helps, so I’ve added both of those in the next tab! There’s also this checklist which you can download and use to make sure that you have everything you need 🙂

Here are the basic steps that I follow when building:
-Install the Power Supply into the Case
-Install the processor (make sure the arrows line up)
-Install RAM (make sure they are in the right way before you try to seat them!)
-Mount the CPU cooler
-Place the rear I/O plate
-Mount the motherboard to the case (get your i/o ports through and use the middle standoff as a guide)
-Plug your GPU in
-Install any storage
-Plug everything into the appropriate spots
-Turn it on / Install OS & drivers!

In-depth Walkthrough

Instead of me typing out a ton of words to explain this process, why not watch this video put together by EasyPCbuilder.com? He does a great job of explaining everything in detail, and is going to get you running in 30 minutes.

Or, if you did want a ton of words, I’ve put together somewhat of a crash course to building your gaming PC that you might want to check out.

Keep in mind that it’s not the exact same build, but the process is really similar. There’s really only 1 way to do things, and it’s pretty hard to mess anything up if you’re being careful.

The Best $800 Gaming PC Build

Updated: February 10th, 2017

  • Corsair Carbide Spec 01

    Mid tower ATX case, great layout and cable management.
    View

  • Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H

    LGA 1151 socket motherboard, mATX size, B250 chipset. Integrated audio, built-in ethernet, and 6x USB ports.
    View

  • Intel i5 7500

    3.4GHz base clock/3.8GHz boost clock, 6MB smart cache. Comes with a CPU cooler.
    View

  • Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce

    6GB GDDR5, 5 display outputs, amazing 1080p performance!
    View

  • EVGA 650 BQ

    650W power supply, 85% efficiency (bronze), semi-modular, 3-year warranty.
    View

  • Corsair Vengeance LPX

    8GB CL16 2400MHz RAM, dual-channel pair.
    View

  • Seagate BarraCuda 1TB HDD

    3.5 inch, 7200 RPM, 64MB cache, quiet!
    View

  • Toshiba OCZ TL100 120GB SSD

    550MB/s read, 530MB/s write, 85000 random read IOPS.
    View

Estimated
$0
At Amazon
Get This Build!

Potential Upgrades

Although not entirely necessary, some add ons like optical drives can sometimes improve your experience. If you’re installing your operating system from a disc opposed to a USB flash drive, then you’ll definitely need an optical drive.

  • Samsung Internal 24x CD DVD±R/RW kit

    Comes with mounting hardware & cables. An optical drive isn’t necessary, but if you’re installing your OS from a disc you’ll need it.
    View

  • Samsung Ultra-Slim External CD DVD±R/RW

    A lot of people are moving away from internally mounted optical drives, and it’s easy to see why! This one is definitely one of the cheaper & better options to consider.
    View

Details

When you’re picking parts to build yourself a gaming PC there are lots of things to consider. For instance, do you plan on upgrading it in the future? Do you just want what you can get now, or do you want to eventually overclock your processor? Each path gives you a lot of new things to consider to effectively balance price with performance. But, why do all that when you could have me do it for you?!

Keep in mind that the price listed above is for the core components only, you will still need an operating system, and any other peripherals you don’t currently have.

The brand new 3.4GHz quad-core Intel i5 7500 gives us a fair amount of processing power perfectly fit for gaming! It’ll perform well in every game out there and won’t bottleneck your GPU when under stress. That said, a powerful CPU only gets a gaming PC so far, and having a strong graphics card is even more important!

The Gigabyte B250M-DS3H motherboard is a great unit for the price and it’s giving you all of the features that you’ll need, like integrated audio, a built-in ethernet controller, 6x USB ports, support for up to 4 sticks of 2400MHz DDR4 RAM and lots of room for future expansion.

gigabyte-gtx-1060-g1The GTX 1060 is great graphics card in both price and performance. It’s easily one of the best options at this level without going too crazy on cost. Gigabyte’s GTX 1060 Windforce is a great option that proves stronger than Nvidia’s Founders Edition release. It offers 6GB of 192-bit GDDR5 VRAM, a clock of 1556MHz base / 1771MHz boost, 5 display outputs, RGB lighting, and it also comes with a backplate. The GTX 1060 is also capable of supporting VR headsets like the Vive or Rift.

When it comes to RAM, 8GB is all you need for gaming this far into 2016, really. There will come a time when most games will demand 16GB or more, but that time hasn’t come just yet. Even some of the very few games that currently “require” 16GB tend to run perfectly fine with an 8GB setup. With that in mind, if you’re like me and you end up running Chrome with 100 different tabs open while gaming at the same time, you might want to consider adding more RAM.

For storage, you have 2 drives in this build, 1 HDD and 1 SSD. There’s a purpose for this, and it’s actually really useful. Your 120GB SSD is meant to be used as the primary “boot drive” or where Windows and any essential startup programs are installed – your PC will boot much quicker because of this. The HDD is then used as a mass storage drive for everything else, games, music, memes, whatever you want to put on it.

Corsair’s Carbide Spec-01 case is an awesome choice at this level as it gives you everything you’ll need and a bit more. If you’re not a fan of this case, there are lots of other options available like the NZXT S340 or the Phanteks P400 just to name a couple. If you need a hand picking out a case, feel free to ask me in the comment section!

There’s a lot of relatively high-performance parts in this build, so it would be safe to assume it would require massive amounts of power, right? Wrong! We really only need a bit more than a few hundred watts of power to run this build full-out, so we’re going with a 650W semi-modular power supply from EVGA that’s packing more than enough juice to power all your components and then some. Although it’s not a top-tier power supply, it’s nowhere near a bad unit either, it’s mid-level, very reliable, and the fact that it’s semi-modular is awesome.

I didn’t pull any punches when it came to squeezing every ounce of power from your $800 budget, and you will not be disappointed! This build is easily capable of running pretty much whatever you throw at it on at least high settings in 60fps 1080p! That being said, I did run over the budget a bit due to how things are priced right now, but that is almost unavoidable without losing way more in terms of performance.

Operating System

When it comes to picking an operating system, you have quite a few options laid out before you. But, the best / easiest two are either Windows or something Linux-based.

If you’re really strapped for cash, or you really just don’t like Windows, Ubuntu is a great option because it’s entirely free, and it’s really solid/secure. It’s a Linux-based OS and can play any game that supports Linux. More and more games are adding Linux support, but it definitely sucks when a game you’ve been waiting forever for ends up being Windows only…

windows-10-homeThe more expensive option is buying a copy of Windows. With DirectX 12 becoming more common and the Skylake-based processors basically demanding Windows 10, you might want to consider jumping on that right away, but it’s ultimately your call.

Installing your operating system can be done in a couple of different ways, either by DVD or a USB flash drive that you either create yourself or buy. Either will get the job done, but going for Windows & using the retail DVD (or USB flash drive) is going to be the easiest – any cheap DVD drive will work.

If you want to create your own USB flash drive to install something like Ubuntu from, you can find some decent instructions here.

Extras

If this is the absolute first gaming PC you’ve ever owned, then chances are high that you don’t have a very good keyboard + mouse combo, or that your monitor is sub-par to really enjoy your experience.

If this is the scenario that you’re in, then we have some really awesome suggestions for you to consider. Each peripheral was hand-picked for this build and they’re all guaranteed high quality.

  • Asus VS238H-P

    23″, 1080p 60Hz, 2ms response time – Great for gaming
    View

  • Azio MGK1

    An awesome mechanical keyboard using Kailh blue switches. Lots of tactile feedback.
    View

  • EVGA TORQ X10 Carbon

    Wired, adjustable weight & height system, ambidextrous (use either hand).
    View

  • Creative Sound BlasterX H5

    Easily the best gaming headset for under $100 and it’s not going to let you down!
    View

  • Reflex Lab Mouse Pad

    Super smooth, very accurate, and extremely comfortable to use! Reflex Lab mouse pads are available in 4 sizes from your basic 9″ x 8″ right up to a whopping 36″ x 18″!
    View

WiFi

Since the motherboard in this build does not have built-in WiFi (most don’t) you will need a WiFi adapter if you plan on using a wireless internet connection. That said, if you have the option to run a wired connection, do that instead because it will be faster & more reliable.

You have a couple options, you could get a decent USB-based WiFi adapter for about $20 that would work alright. Or you can get an internally mounted WiFi adapter that costs roughly $35, and will be more reliable than the USB option.

  • TP-LINK TL-WDN4800

    Internally mounted WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz or 5GHz.
    View

  • TP-LINK TL-WN722N

    USB WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz
    View

Conclusion

If you came here looking to build yourself a badass $800 gaming PC, I hope you found what you were looking for! This build puts out a lot of power for the price and, in my opinion, it’s probably the best value when it comes to 1080p gaming, or even 1440p!

Like I said at the beginning of this build guide, it’s going to take more than a year for this build to need any kind of serious upgrades; and even then, you might only need to throw another 8GB of RAM in there to maintain relevance.

All-in-all, you will be hard pressed to build a better gaming PC for under 800 dollars, unless you’re building it with a specific game or purpose in mind! Don’t forget to leave a comment below, and share this with your friends!

Order This $800 Build!

Not the one for you?

Author

Branton

The first game that I ever played on a PC was Ultima Online in 1999, and since then I have been hooked on PC gaming, and putting together awesome builds. Thanks for stopping by!

Share it!

1,234 Comments on “The Best Gaming PC Build For Under $800”

  1. Hi, I was wordering if I could use an Intel i7 Processor and if I could add 8GB of RAM to make it 16GBack in total. If I did this would it benefit me to upgrade the graphics card? P.S. I know this will cost me over $800. One last thing-Can this PC run rust on ultra with 60 fps.I know I have alots of questions and I sincerely thank you for the help.

    1. Hey Evan,

      You could definitely use an i7 CPU, but to make sure you don’t run into any compatibility issues it has to be an i7 7700. Adding another 8GB of RAM would give you slightly higher FPS in a few games, but it wouldn’t be noticeable everywhere.

      Definitely not going to be running Rust on ultra @ 60fps – not even a GTX 1080 can do that!!! Just goes to show how poorly optimized Rust is in the current alpha build. This build is definitely capable of ultra settings @ 60fps in almost anything else, however.

  2. Hey Branton,
    It’s been a while! I don’t have any more questions, I just wanted to thank you for everything you’ve done to help me build my computer; I’m typing this on a fully functional custom tower that demolishes the games I play. I couldn’t have done this without your guidance, I’m very grateful that you lead me through this project. The building process turned out to be quite fun, although for some reason it took a while for me to get a fully fledged setup with a monitor and peripherals. Regardless, I have you to thank for opening the door to PC building for me.

    Keep doing what you do.

    1. Also, I see that you’ve updated your parts list with the Thermaltake V31 case I asked about earlier 😉

      1. Sure did 🙂 It’s a great replacement for the Spec 02, if you hadn’t asked about it I probably would have picked something else, so, thanks!

    2. Hey Aaron, welcome back!

      You’re more than welcome and I’m happy that I could help 🙂 Just wait until you get into the more custom aspects of building a PC, that’s when it gets really fun!

      If there’s anything else I can help with, don’t hesitate to ask!

  3. Awsome build i just got her built, i am haveing a issue though. i cant get the HDD to show up to add it into my boot order. it shows it in SATA slot 2 but thats it. what am i doing wrong? (i have the SSD working just fine)

    1. Hey Sean,

      Sorry to hear that! Is your HDD’s power cable completely seated into the PSU & HDD? Have you tried plugging your HDD into another SATA port? You could also try clearing the CMOS by removing the oversized watch battery in the bottom left corner of your mobo for a minute or so (with your PC off of course) before replacing it and trying again. Otherwise, it’s possible that your HDD is defective in which case you’ll be able to get a replacement shipped out ASAP through Amazon.

      Hope that helps!

  4. What other options for cooling systems are there? I feel like it would not stay cold with AAA games or multitasking

    1. Hey Ethan,

      The stock cooler that you get with the i5 7500 is more than enough to keep it well within operable temps regardless of what you’re doing 🙂 That said, there are tons of other options available, why not try a Corsair H80i?

  5. So if i bought the External CD DVD±R/RW, i wouldn’t need an internal one right ?, and can i add 240GB OCZ Trion 150 SSD to this pc ?

    1. Hey Owen,

      Nope, the i7 7700 will come with a CPU cooler just like the i5 7500. You could always upgrade your CPU cooling if you wanted to, but it’s not a necessity 🙂

      Hope that helps!

    1. Hey Edward,

      Not really, to be totally honest. The only thing you’re really getting over the WindForce model is a higher factory overclock and some LEDs. If the LEDs are worth the extra $25 to you, then I’d say go for it 🙂

  6. Nice build, I’d like to order the parts soon. The only thing is that I live in the UK and ordering from the USA adds on a lot of tax. Is there a list of all these parts on the UK version of Amazon by any chance? I tried to find the parts on the UK version but the names aren’t exactly the same and seeing as I don’t know a whole lot about PC building, I can’t determine if they’re correct or not.

    1. After looking again I managed to get the items sent to me for a much better price. I can’t wait to get all the parts, thanks a lot for making this guide.

      1. Awesome, Saul, good to hear! It’s not a problem and if there’s anything else I can do to help just let me know 🙂

  7. Hey Branton,

    I’ve been looking at building a new computer, however the last time I upgraded mine was in 2011 and I’m looking for some advice.

    My current build consists of:
    ASUS P6X58D-E LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131641)
    SAPPHIRE Vapor-X Radeon HD 6870 (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102925)
    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231358)
    Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield Quad-Core 2.66 GHz LGA 1366 130W BX80601920 Processor (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202)
    ZALMAN ZM750-HP 750W (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817379006)
    Antec Twelve Hundred Black Steel ATX Full Tower (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129043)
    Western Digital Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5″ (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136795)

    I really like the look of your $800 build and am pretty sure I’ll be going with the following:
    ASUS Prime B250-Plus
    Intel i5 7500
    Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce

    I did have a few questions on the other components though.

    So I currently have 12GB of DDR3 RAM right now and I know that I will need to upgrade to DDR4, but will I be losing anything going down to 8GB or should I switch up to 16GB (I do tend to have multiple tabs open at all times.)

    I’m thinking of going with either the Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=asc_df_B00OBRE5UE4822648?tag=hawk-future-20&creative=395261&creativeASIN=B00OBRE5UE&linkCode=asn&ascsubtag=hawk-2127224970-20&th=1) or the 500GB in the same model or do you think an m.2 SSD would be a better way to go. This is my first experience with SSD’s. I was also planning to keep my current back up HDD (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185) unless you think it would be in my best interest to buy a newer one.

    Do you think I would need to update my current power supply since it is already rated for 750W and do you think I should update my tower for this new configuration? The one main concern of mine is that I’m now living in a house with 3 dogs that shed like crazy and I want a case that will help me keep the pet hair out.

    Sorry for all of the questions, but I want to make sure I’m getting a build that will hold up especially if I can’t get around to upgrading for another 6 years 🙁

    BTW I play a lot of current AAA games, but would definitely want a smooth experience when I play WoW.

    1. Hey Shaun,

      It sounds like you’re definitely due for an upgrade!

      If you can afford it I think you’ll be happier with 16GB over 8GB. If you’re like me and run a lot of tabs in Chrome, that can eat upwards of 2GB of RAM on its own 😮

      The 850 EVO is an amazing SSD, it’s what I run and I couldn’t be happier with it – even if it is a little more pricey than the rest of the competition at times. M.2 SSDs are pretty good, but what you really want is an M.2-based NVMe SSD – that’s where the real speed is! You can definitely keep your old HDD as long as it wasn’t your primary boot drive before, otherwise it could cause some glitches.

      As long as your current PSU isn’t showing any signs of dying, you should be okay with keeping it for a while. That being said, it’s pretty old and I personally wouldn’t change it with a bunch of new components.

      This build will definitely give you a smooth AAA gaming experience as well as in MMOs like WoW!

      It’s no worries! If there’s anything else I can do to help, just let me know 🙂

      1. Hey Branton,

        Thank you so much for your advice. I’ve looking at prices and comparing the parts and I think I’ll be going with the following set up, however I would love to get your thoughts first.

        Phanteks Eclipse P400 Glacier White Tempered Glass
        Intel Core i5-7500 Kaby Lake Quad-Core 3.4 GHz LGA 1151
        GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce 6GB
        CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400
        Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD
        ASUS PRIME B250-PLUS LGA 1151 Intel B250 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s

        I’ve also decided to go with a newer power supply, but your $800-$1000 options are all pretty comparable in price. Which one would you recommend for the build I’m putting together?

        I’m also looking at picking up the ASUS VS238H-P 23″ Full HD 1920×1080 2ms HDMI DVI VGA Back-lit LED Monitor for the main in my dual screen set up.

        1. Hey Shaun,

          Looks awesome! The Phanteks P400 is a great case!

          If it’s in your budget, I would definitely go for the EVGA 650 G3 – it’s a Gold rated power supply with Platinum levels of efficiency, it’s what I use and I absolutely love it.

          That’s a decent monitor for sure, just be sure that you’re cool with the matte screen (most are) and you’ll be good to go!

    1. Hey John,

      On the Corsair Carbide Spec 01 you can just mount them to the existing trays, they’re built to support either 2.5 or 3.5″ drives.

      Hope that helps!

  8. So this has all of the cables to attach to each other within the PC? Sorry if it’s a stupid question, I’m a little new to building PC’s! Also, is there any concerns I may need to look out for while running this build? The last thing I want is to ruin this build that’s definitely costing me haha

    1. Hey Brando,

      There’s no such thing as a stupid question, just a question needing an answer!! That said, this build comes with everything you’ll need assuming you don’t add anything to the parts list above 🙂 There’s nothing to look out for that you wouldn’t have to on any other PC, just the usual stuff like don’t drop it, etc.

    1. There aren’t any games that this build can’t run 🙂 You can expect very high – ultra settings in 1080p @ 60fps in pretty much any game! Less intensive esports games like CS:GO will run at well over 200fps if that’s more your thing.

      Hope that helps!

  9. I am looking to build a P.C that can handle FF 14 ARR base game and upcoming xpac’s (MMO) @ 1080p 60fps, all settings cranked up!
    How would this build do? Is this more then enough or could i go for a cheaper build, is this build just right or would i need a more powerful build to achieve said game at said settings without having problems. Thank you!

    1. This build can definitely max FFXIV out while getting 60fps+ in 1080p – it could even handle 1440p @ 60fps if I’m not mistaken 🙂 You could go down to my $700 build and get basically the same performance without the option for 1440p.

  10. Oh thanks, wow and eso are the other mmo’s it’ll be used for but i used FF14 as the game to shoot for thinking that game is probably harder to max then the other two.

    So, the 700$ build for 1080p@60 will be just as good for those titles and other most AAA titles @ at least high if not ultra @60fps for 2017. This is my first build and once i do this i won’t be able to upgrade anything for at least another year.
    I imagine this MOBO is good for upgrading to better intel cpu’s or if i want to push a 1080 next year the PSU and all can stay?
    So thankful for all the time you take to reply back!

    1. No problem 🙂 I think ESO is slightly more demanding than FFXIV, but I could be wrong – either way, a build that’ll max one out will definitely max the other out!

      Yep! It’ll be good for those games as long as they exist! You’ll be good to go for well over a year, closer to 3 for sure. The GTX 1060 is very powerful compared to previous x60-series GPUs (960, 760, etc). The mobo will support 7th gen non-K CPUs, a viable upgrade would be to the i7 7700; it’ll also support a GTX 1080 no problem, as will the power supply 🙂

      Hope that helps!

  11. Hey, I am new to PC gaming. Is there any way I can get this order as UK order instead of ordering from US and paying ridiculous tax?

    Cheers.

  12. Hey, I can only afford this pc if I don’t get one of the memory drives and I have an old pc from 2007 with a 1 TB hard drive. Is there a way I can totally wipe the hard drive clean and if it has a virus on it would it be gone too or is there a way to deal with it?

    1. Hey Cole,

      You can definitely reformat an old drive to use in a new build. Your best bet is to wipe it clean before installing it into your new system, but if it’s your OS drive then you will have to reformat it IN the new PC when you first go to boot from the Windows Installer.

      Hope that helps!

      1. Just to make sure, because my old hard drive has windows 7 on it I have to instal windows 10 on the new computers SSD and than clear the hard drive with windows 7?

        1. Ah, I misunderstood, I thought you wanted to drop both storage drives in this build and just use your current HDD.

          That’s exactly right, you want to plug in your SSD without the HDD plugged in, go into your BIOS and make sure the SSD’s SATA mode is set to AHCI, then install Windows to it. Once that’s done, plug in your old HDD, boot up your PC from your SSD, and then reformat/repartition your old HDD 🙂 Once that’s done, you’re good to go on the rest of your driver updates, etc, and then it’s time to game!

  13. Hi, Branton,.
    Can I replace the Tower with Z11 Neo ($50 after rebate thru Fry’s), and intel i5 7600 + Gigabyte Z270X-Gaming 5 Motherboard ($360 CPU and MoBo Combined thru Fry’s). In this case, will the other components still be compatible? Should I get 650W or 750W PSU in case I will upgrade my GPU in the future? For games like XCom 2 and Civilization 5, will the CPU + MoBo enough for 1080 graphic? If it does, I plan to postpone the purchase of the GPU until next year or other AAA games that I want to play are out. And will the Fans Come with the Z11 Neo be enough?
    Thank

    1. Hey Ryan,

      You can definitely use the Zalman Z11 Neo. One thing, the Z270 chipset motherboard really isn’t needed for a non-K i5 7600 CPU… I’m not sure why they would even bundle them together as there’s really no point and you’re just wasting $ imo. You’d be able to save money by going for a H270 or B250 chipset mobo without losing any performance at all. A 650W PSU will be enough, 750W would be only for your peace of mind. You could run a GTX 1080 also, not a problem, but if you’re thinking of upgrading to that next year then don’t forget about the upcoming 1080 Ti! Yep, the fans will be enough.

      Hope that helps!

      1. Thanks to Branton. I just purchased 2x4GB RAM (what you provided in the link, I got the red one because it’s $10 cheaper for some reason). If the MoBo and 7600 combined is enough to play XCom without an extra Video Card, I will live with it for now. My plan is really to upgrade to 1080 or the Ti next year (I heard the 10 series is a lot better than the 9 series, so I will just wait until I have more money). With that in mind, will 2x4GB RAM be enough? I also don’t know the main difference between the different SSD (SATA III, m.2, etc). Which one should I get? Should I get it cheap now and plan to do upgrade later for SSD? Thanks again

        1. No problem! Sometimes the different colors are cheaper, I’m not too sure why. Either way, it always pays to double check! You’re definitely going to need a discrete graphics card to play Xcom 2 on any settings above low, the integrated graphics will work for games like CS:GO but that’s about it. 8GB of RAM will be plenty for dedicated gaming, but if you want to multitask at the same time you’ll maybe want to consider adding more. A standard SATA SSD is usually good enough at this level, M.2 and M.2 NVMe SSDs can be nice but they’re $$.

          1. Hey Branton
            Thanks for your help. Based on your comment and this article, I actually change almost everything (I used yours as baseline, and make change based on rebate and review, normally better review on PC gamer and it’s on discount cheaper than this article’s list). Some of them are one day deal so it’s not applicable to other people. The exception would be the Intel 7600 + Z270 MoBo, I realize the MoBo is really overkill, the price is higher than B250 + Intel 7500 separately but I think it’s more future proven. I got the Video card you suggested because the integrated alone really not working out from everyone’s comment.

          2. Zalman Z11 Neo ATX Mid Tower $51.23
            Gigabyte Z270X-Gaming 5 MoBo + Intel i5-7600 393.46
            Corsair CX750M Modular ATX PSU $66.71
            GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 Windforce OC 6GB $234.99
            WD Blue 1TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive 7200 rpm $49.99
            Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED CPU Fan $19.99
            Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 Red LED $3.34
            Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 Blue LED $3.99
            ASUS DRW-24B1ST DVD Burner OEM $19.99
            CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4 3000 $57.99
            Transcend SSD370 128GB $68.35

            Total came out to be 970.03, and that’s after the 9.5% state tax in Washington and shipping for some of the items, I already factors in the rebate. Technically speaking, that’s $885 if I take out the tax. Do you think this is good and the price justifiable?

  14. Hey Branton

    Can i use the Thermaltake Versa N21 instead of the Corsair?

    Also if i have an extra $100 can i replace the gtx 1060 with the 1070? Is the gtx 1070, in your opinion, a good investment if you want to have a pc that will last for a long time or better stick with the 1060 and maybe build the 900 budget pc?

    1. Hey Victor,

      You can definitely use the Versa N21!

      The GTX 1070 is a great investment if it’s not breaking the bank! It’ll definitely last longer than the 1060 before it starts to fall behind. It’s all about what you need/want, my builds are tiered in a way that each level gets different upgrades; as an example, my $900 build has a larger & faster SSD, higher quality power supply, and a better full-size motherboard, when compared to my $800 build. It’s either those things or a GTX 1070, the decision is all yours!

      Hope that helps!

  15. Are there any compatibility problems adding the gtx 1070 in this build?

    Also will the power supply, the cooler ecc have any problems managing the 1070? Even if its overcloked?

    My goal is to have a good pc that can handle all the games for the next like 6 years or so even if it’s at minimum requirements. Because 6 years ago i build a really good pc that lasted until today even if i had to run the latest game on low settings.
    But now my graphic card can’t handle them anymore so i was thinking that if i want a pc to last as long as possible i need to sacrifice some things like the power supply or the motherboard in order to get a really good GPU like the 1070 that won’t cause me any problems for the next 5+ years and i don’t know if the 1060 can do that.

    This is why I’m asking your opinion. You really know more then me. What would you do? Would you stick with the 1060 and maybe build the 900 budget pc or would you go for the 1070 with all that in mind? If you’re telling me that getting the 1070 will give me 2+ more years with this current build instead of the 1060 I think I would go with the 1070 but I want to hear what you have to say. 😀

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.