Trying to build yourself the best budget gaming PC build for $500? Well, this particular build is going to put those dollars to good use! It's fully-equipped with an Intel i3 8100, a 4GB RX 570, 8GB of RAM, and 240GB of SSD storage!
This budget gaming PC build is packing enough power to handle your favorite games in 1080p without an issue. You won't be playing GTA:V on ultra settings by any means, but the performance will be comparable to (usually better than) modern consoles like the Xbox One or PS4.
In newer or graphically demanding games, expect this budget build to manage medium settings at around 60fps in 1080p. Less graphically intensive games like CS:GO, DOTA, LoL, and other games like that won't have any problems running at 60-100fps+ in 1080p.
If you were to head down to any local store and spend $500 on a cheap desktop, chances are you’re going to walk away with little more than a paperweight that struggles to run Minesweeper at 20fps in 720p, not to mention any games that you actually wanted to play... So, why not skip that headache?
In comparison, building your own budget-level gaming PC will set you up with waaayyyyy more gaming potential. Plus, you can say “I built that.”
Have a question? Ask me in the comment section!
Best Budget Gaming PC Build for $500
Updated: June 19th, 2019
Thermaltake Versa H15
mATX case, comes with 1x 120mm fan. Equipped with front USB 3.0 & 3.5mm audio jacks.
ViewGigabyte B360M DS3H
mATX size, LGA 1151 socket, Intel B360 chipset motherboard. 6x USB, 6x SATA + 1x M.2. View
Intel i3 8100
4-core/4-thread 3.6GHz CPU. Comes with a CPU cooler. View
PolorColor Red Dragon RX 570 4GB
4GB GDDR5 VRAM, great 1080p performance – better than consoles. 1x HDMI, 1x DVI and 3x DisplayPort.
ViewThermaltake Smart 500W
A reliable non-modular 80+ White rated power supply. Comes with a 5-year warranty.
View8GB HyperX FURY DDR4 RAM
2x4GB 2666Mhz DDR4 RAM. More RAM can be added if needed.
ViewKingston A400 240GB SSD
A lightning quick 240GB SSD. More storage can be added as needed.
View
- A small Phillips screwdriver
Size #2 works well as a general rule. - An anti-static wristband
Optional but recommended. - Patience And lots of it.
That’s really all you need to assemble your new desktop. All of the mounting hardware and cables will come with the parts listed above. The only time you might need something extra is if you’re modifying the build on this page.
Recommended Add-ons
Add-ons like SSDs and optical drives are by no means necessary, but they may give you a better experience. Others, like an Operating System, are basically mandatory but you have more options than just Windows 10. If you're planning on installing your OS from a disc instead of a USB flash drive then you'll definitely need an optical drive.
Windows 10 USB Installer
Windows 10 is your best bet when it comes to picking an operating system in terms of out-of-the-box compatibility. This version is a USB-based installer. View
Samsung Ultra-Slim External CD DVD±R/RW
External optical drives have quickly become the standard over their internally mounted counterparts and it’s easy to see why! This one is definitely one of the cheaper & better options to consider. View
Build Breakdown
For right around $500, this budget gaming PC is going to get you into modern games and playing them on mid-high settings pushing 60fps or better in 1080p. Some games are still going to give this build some issues at the highest settings, but it's still going to outperform (or at least keep up with) next-gen consoles like the Xbox One and PS4!
This build will run games like Apex Legends, PUBG, Fallout 4, GTA:V and pretty much anything else on mid settings or better while getting great performance! Less graphically intensive games like CS:GO, DOTA, LoL, or anything along those lines, will easily run at 60-100fps+.
Keep in mind that the price above is for the core components only, you will still need an operating system, and any other peripherals you don't currently have.
Case: The Thermaltake Versa H15 is a very decent mATX-sized case (Check out the best mATX cases here) that'll easily fit everything in this build and then some. It comes with 1x 120mm fan but has room to mount 2 more in the front if you wanted to (it's not required). Keep in mind that there are tons of choices when it comes to cases and you should definitely shop around for one that you really like before deciding on one!
Motherboard: The Gigabyte B360M DS3H motherboard used for this build is relatively basic, but it still gives you everything you'll need and will still have room left for future upgrades. It supports the LGA 1151 socket type that Intel's newest CPUs require, making it compatible with not only the i3 8100, but with stronger CPUs like the i5 8600 or i7 8700. This board comes with integrated audio, a built-in ethernet controller, 6 USB ports, 6 SATA 6GBs ports, a M.2 slot for super-fast SSDs, and room for 3 DIMMs of RAM.
Processor (CPU): Running Intel's new quad-core i3 8100 is a great starting point for a build with massive potential to grow. Not only is it a very strong entry-level CPU, but it also uses the same LGA 1151 socket as other 8th generation Intel CPUs like the i5 8600, meaning you can upgrade to a stronger CPU any time you want. The 4-core/4-thread, 3.6GHz i3 8100 is the first of the i3 lineup to feature 4 physical cores and it makes for a really good budget CPU for gaming!
Graphics Card (GPU): The 4GB RX 570 is a budget beast when you take into consideration it's super-low power requirements and very reasonable price point. PowerColor's Red Dragon RX 570 4GB is definitely no exception!
An RX 570 can easily manage 1080p gaming while consistently outperforming both current gen consoles in every game out there.
Power Supply (PSU): When it comes to power, this build doesn't require a whole lot and a 500W supply like EVGA's 500 BQ is going to work great while giving you all the power you need. It's a good semi-modular 80+ bronze power supply which means it'll be at least 80% efficient, it also comes with a nice 3-year warranty if anything were to ever happen.
System Memory (RAM): 8GB of RAM is basically the standard when it comes to a gaming PC. Some games do require more, but as a general rule 8GB is enough. Since Ryzen processors perform the best with at least a speed of 2666MHz, I've included 2x4GB sticks from Kingston's HyperX FURY lineup of DDR4 RAM.
With that in mind, the motherboard will still have 2 slots open meaning you can add another 8GB or more, if you need to.
Storage: Starting with a 240GB SSD is a great foundation. It's more than enough to install Windows 10, the most important programs, and a few games. Beyond that, you'll likely need more storage.
Luckily, adding storage is the easiest part of PC building and it's as simple as plugging in power and data and voila, you have more space!
Overall, this build is perfectly tailored for games like Fortnite, CS:GO, Overwatch, LoL, Rocket League, and anything else along those lines. More graphically intensive games like GTA:V, Battlefield 1, The Witcher 3, and so on, will still run better than on consoles but don't expect to play on max settings.
Operating System
When it comes to choosing which operating system to run, you're going to have to consider a couple of points. Your budget, and what you really need.
Windows is currently the best option when it comes to having access to a wide-array of compatible programs, but, it's also the most expensive option. Picking what version has become somewhat limited recently, and since the newest version of DirectX requires Windows 10, that's basically our option to keep up with the tech advances.
However, there is also a free alternative, and that's Ubuntu or another Linux-based OS like SteamOS (I wouldn't really suggest SteamOS at this point). As Linux is becoming more and more popular, more dev studios are extending their support out to Linux-based operating systems as well, so you can expect more AAA games to support Linux as we move forward.
Keep in mind that to installing Ubuntu on your new PC will require you to create your own installation disc / flash drive. It's not really a difficult process by any means, but it's just another step to take into consideration. If you wanted to create your own bootable flash drive for either OS, you can find good instructions here.
Peripherals
If this budget beast is the very first gaming PC you’ve owned, chances are you don’t have a very good keyboard + mouse combo, or that your monitor is sub-par to really enjoy your experience. Or maybe you don't have any kind of speakers / headset?
If you don't have these basic peripherals, you're definitely going to want them. At the very least you're going to need a keyboard, a mouse, some kind of audio, and a monitor.
Luckily for you, I've hand picked some awesome budget-minded peripherals matched to this build's budget level to cover each of these basic needs, check them out below!
Asus VS247H-P 23-inch 1080p monitor
23″, 1080p 60Hz, 2ms response time – Great for gaming View
CM Storm Devastator 3 KB+M Combo
An awesome keyboard + mouse combo from Cooler Master for around $35! View
Corsair HS50
Easily one of the best gaming headset you can get for under $50, in my opinion. View
WiFi
If you plan on using a WiFi connection, then you're also going to need some kind of WiFi adapter as very few motherboards come with it built-in unless you want to spend way more.
You have a couple of options, either a USB-based WiFi adapter, or one that mounts internally, but you only need one. USB is more convenient and much cheaper in most cases, but they're often less reliable than an internally mounted unit.
Conclusion
This build is absolutely over-the-top when it comes to spending $500 on your own custom gaming PC. It's a little more pricey than your average next-gen console, but it's also way more versatile in terms of what you can do.
When it comes down to it, this budget beast is going to outpace next gen consoles by giving you noticeably higher frame rates and better graphics (more often than not). If you wanted even more gaming potential, your best bet would be upgrading the graphics card to something more powerful like a GTX 1660 or RX 580.
Once your build is all put together, you might find that a little extra customization is in order. Once you're at that stage, you might want to wander over to my post about 3 of the easiest ways to customize your PC.
All-in-all, you really couldn't ask for a better build on a $500 budget, it's going to completely blow your mind when you start loading up your favorite games! 1080p 60fps is well within reach and I think you'll find that this build has WAY more power than you'd expect!
If you have any questions ask me the comment section and I would be happy to help!
| Case | Thermaltake Versa H15 |
| Motherboard | Gigabyte B360M DS3H |
| Processor | Intel i3 8100 |
| Graphics | PowerColor Red Dragon RX 570 4GB |
| Power Supp. | Thermaltake Smart 500W 80+ White |
| RAM | 8GB DDR4 (2400MHz) |
| HDD | Optional |
| SSD | Kingston A400 240GB |
| CPU Cooler | Stock |
Why not the i3-9100 instead if i3-8100 isnt the 9th gen better than the eight gen.
It’s about 10% better, so instead of 60fps you’d see 66fps in most cases. In some games the difference is even less than 10%, more like 2-5%. And in others the difference would be slightly more. Basically, the 9100 is an 8100 with a “Turboclock” that lets it run up to 4.2GHz instead of a locked 3.6GHz. You’d have to buy it from outside of Amazon as well, there’s currently a 1-3 month wait for it through AZ. Even the 9100f has a 1-3 month wait time at Amazon.
hey thanks for the quick reply. I am currently building my own pc and iam a little confused. Should i buy a r3 1200 and gtx 1660 since r3 1200 is really cheap in my country. My plan us to upgrade my processor after 1.5 years or buy a r5 2600 and pair it with rx 570. I cant buy the ryzen 2200g because it messes my budget and the rx 580 is costly here. I wont go the intel route since intel mobo are costly and have no room for future upgradibility. I want to play cyberpunk 2077 at high at 45-50 frames so iam planning to buy a better gpu.
That wouldn’t be a bad idea if it’s significantly cheaper than the i3 8100 is. There’s only a 10-15% difference between them (in favor of the i3 8100) so the difference isn’t that tremendous. It’s still a little early to know what kind of build you’d need for that level of performance in Cyberpunk 2077, but an R5 2600 (or a 3600 because they’ll be out next month) would be a good level of CPU. GPU is still hard to say, but I’d imagine the RX 570 would do what you’re hoping.
Dear Branton,
Just to clarify, even if it is a stupid question, all of these components will go together? I know this is a simple question but I’m new to PCs. I just don’t want to get something wrong on the first go.
Hey Carter,
There’s no such thing as a stupid question 🙂 That said, all of the components definitely work together!
Thank you!!
I have one more question. Will this network card work with the motherboard? I would prefer to use this over a USB adapter. Here is the link to it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3385K7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3AIN14RCW5MS9&psc=1
It should work just fine. If it doesn’t fit (GPU covering your PCI slots) then you might have to use a riser, but you’ll be able to make it work for sure.
Ok, thank you!!
You’re welcome!
I’ve ordered all these parts and been trying to build this for about 3 weeks now, I’ve replaced the Power Supply and the Motherboard, but it has never even powered on. What could I possibly be doing wrong? I thought maybe I shorted the motherbaord with static the first time, I asked some computer friends if I was hooking everything up right, I was, and they suggested replacing the PSU. I’ve tried a different case (incase the power switch was the problem) but even shorting the PwrSw pins didn’t start it.
ATM I’m just gonna send all the parts back and get a refund while I still can. Maybe later I’ll just order a prebuilt or pay extra to have it built.
Hey Daniel,
Sorry that you’re running into so many issues. Do you have absolutely no lights or fans when you switch the power supply to on and attempt to start your build? Or does anything happen? Any blips maybe? Maybe a light somewhere on the motherboard?
Before replacing the power supply, did you test it using either the paperclip method or the included self-testing tool? That would have told you for sure whether the PSU was the issue. The chances of getting 2 faulty parts in a row are pretty slim.
Is it possible that you’re overlooking the CPU power header in the top-left corner of the motherboard? It’s really common to miss that particular connection.
If not, faulty RAM can also cause a system to not post – same if your RAM isn’t fully seated. You’ll have to push it with even force until it audibly clicks into place.
If it’s none of that, I’d suggest taking a look at this post-build troubleshooting guide as it has a tendency to solve the vast majority of problems. It’s dated, but it’s still relevant.
Hope that helps! If not, please let me know.
Yeah, absolutely no lights, none of the fans spun up; the case fans, the PSU fans, or the CPU fan, none of em spun up no matter how I tried to start it. You should know this motherboard doesn’t have any built in lights or speakers, so no indicators of anything beyond the fans or Case LEDs.
I’m super inexperienced with PC building (this would have been my second, the other being a generic Dell in a college course) so I couldn’t find any safe methods of testing the PSU, nor do I have anyone nearby with the tools.
I checked every cable more than several times over, I removed and replaced everything. I’m mostly certain I had every cable plugged as tightly as I could before I heard creaking or felt bending of the board. I tried the RAM in every slot, but couldn’t find any guides for this specific board on where it was meant to be put, there is a label on the board itself for DDRM4-1, -2, -3, -4. I tried all four.
I’m glad I didn’t try returning every piece, the two pieces I returned already I can’t get my money back directly, its now trapped in my Amazon account (which I don’t use often) So I did not try a different RAM stick or different CPU or GPU
Also I followed that specific guide (already had it bookmarked) several times over, I for the life of me could not get the system to even power at all
If you’re using the Gigabyte B360m DS3H motherboard, there will be a yellow/orange light strip in the bottom left corner of the board, it might be somewhat hidden by your GPU but it’s there. It runs vertically beside the audio capacitors. You can sort of see the top of it in this pic, just below the i/o panel & behind the GPU.
You should have received a small self-testing tool with the power supply. It’ll be a 2-inch-long piece of black plastic that looks like the primary 24-pin connection, only it’ll have a short black wire routed back into itself and that’s it. That tool can be used to safely self-test the power supply (it connects power with a ground, but nothing else; enough to safely test the unit).
To self-test the PSU:
1.) completely disconnect the PSU from your PC
2.) turn the supply off using the power switch located on the back of the supply beside the plug
3.) connect the self-testing tool to the 24-pin connection that stems from the supply
4.) turn the supply back on.
5.) if the PSU is working, its fan should spin up
This video will help walk you through the steps. It’ll also show you how to safely perform the paperclip test, just in case you’re curious how that’s done.
For a single stick of RAM the #2 slot is usually a good option, but it doesn’t really matter and it should work in any slot. Being that you tried all 4 with no result, I’m thinking it could potentially be a faulty stick of RAM. Does anyone you know have a stick of DDR4 you could test with?
It’s really strange that you’re not seeing anything whatsoever. A faulty GPU wouldn’t necessarily cause this, the PC would still turn on you just wouldn’t have a video signal from the GPU – the i3 8100 has an iGPU and it would still work in that case. However, a bent pin on your CPU could easily cause this, so could a faulty stick of RAM. Another possibility is a faulty power bar, or maybe a dead wall socket? It’s also possible the CPU arrived defective. Short of something like the power supply not being turned on, or missing a crucial connection – 2 things you’ve already checked – those are really the only other possibilities.
Personally, after testing the PSU, I would check the CPU for bent pins – if you find that one or some are bent, use something like a toothpick to very gently bend them back into place. If there aren’t any, the problem almost has to be a faulty stick of RAM. By process of elimination, there’s nothing else left unless the CPU itself was DOA.
I hope that helps.
I’m looking to build a computer that can easily handle WoW on the top graphics setting with ease with some room to grow. Which category of builds should I be looking in?
Thanks!
Check out “The Beast” on my WoW builds page 🙂 It should serve as a good starting point.
This build can run Fortnite correct?
Absolutely!
But, you might want to consider upgrading the graphics card to a GTX 1050 Ti. There’s about a 10fps difference on average which is often the difference between a choppy 40-50fps and a smoother 50-60fps (on mostly epic settings in 1080p).
is there any way i could make this build a little cheaper?
Never run Ryzen with single channel ram. Skip the GPU and get a better memory kit; or don’t eat out a few times this month if you need both.