The Best Gaming PC Build For Under $1000

In $900-$1400, Custom Builds by Branton354 Comments

best gaming pc build under 1000 gtx 1060

Looking to build the best gaming PC possible for around or under $1000? This might just be it. Featuring an unlocked Kaby Lake i5 7600k, an 8GB GTX 1070, a Gigabyte Z270 motherboard, and 1.275TB of storage, you’ll be comfortably gaming for a very long time to come!

With a budget of $1000, you can pretty much guarantee that the computer you build can handle 1440p and should also be capable of putting out 4k if you don’t mind lower fps. 1080p is not even an issue. It is basically a perfectly balanced price-point for building your own gaming PC, it’s enough to get you amazing hardware while still maintaining a reasonable budget. That all said, if you’re looking for a build running an AMD Ryzen processor then you might want to check this $1000 Ryzen build out instead.

I hope you enjoy this build guide, and without any more delays, here’s the build!

  • A couple different styled/sized screwdrivers
  • Anti-static wristband (optional but suggested)
  • Patience

That’s about all you’re going to need, seriously. If this is your first attempt at building your own gaming PC, you’re going to want to be well-informed before you tackle the actual build process. There are a lot of walk-throughs and guides on YouTube, and a lot of these are really great to follow, I would highly recommend checking a couple out.

It’s not that building your desktop is going to be hard, but there are some things to take into consideration when doing it, grounding yourself so you don’t fry your new parts with static for instance.

If you’re still thinking that it’s a super-difficult process, just click (or tap) below, skim through the video, and then you’ll know for sure.

Here are the basic steps that I follow when building:
  1. Install the Power Supply into the Case
  2. Install the processor (make sure the arrows line up)
  3. Install RAM (make sure they are in the right way before you try to seat them!)
  4. Mount the CPU cooler
  5. Place the rear I/O plate
  6. Mount the motherboard to the case (get your i/o ports through and use the middle standoff as a guide)
  7. Plug your GPU in
  8. Install any storage
  9. Plug everything into the appropriate spots
  10. Turn it on / Install OS & drivers!

Video Walkthrough

Instead of me typing out a ton of of words to explain this process, why not watch this video put together by He does a great job of explaining everything in detail, and is going to get you running in 30 minutes.

The Best $1000 Gaming PC Build

Updated: July 13th, 2017

  • Corsair Carbide Spec 02

    Mid tower ATX case, great layout, good cable management, 2 preinstalled 120mm fans.

  • Gigabyte GA-Z270XP-SLI

    ATX form factor, Z270 chipset (supports CPU overclocking), integrated 5.1 audio, built-in ethernet controller and a total of 7 USB ports.

  • Intel i5 7600k

    LGA 1151 (Kaby Lake), 3.8GHz, 6MB cache, overclock ready – potentially up to 5.0GHz+!

  • Zotax GTX 1070 Mini

    8GB GDDR5, 5 display outputs, amazing 1080p and 1440p performance!
    **Due to a massive demand for mid-range graphics cards, RX 570/580 and GTX 1060/1070 cards are significantly more expensive than normal. View

  • EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G1

    650W semi-modular power supply, 90% efficiency and a 10-year warranty!

  • 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 RAM

    8GB 2400MHz DDR4 RAM (1x8GB)

  • WD Blue 1TB HDD

    3.5 inch 7200RPM HDD, 64MB cache.

  • Crucial MX300 275GB SSD

    Up to 530MB/s read, 500MB/s write, random read/write IOPs up to 92K/83K.

  • CM Hyper 212 EVO

    After market heatsinks/coolers help keep your CPU cool when overclocking!

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Although not entirely necessary, some add ons like optical drives can sometimes improve your experience. If you’re installing your operating system from a disc opposed to a USB flash drive, then you’ll definitely need an optical drive.

  • Windows 10 (USB Installer)

    Windows 10 is your best bet when it comes to picking an operating system. This version is a USB installer. View

  • Corsair H80i Liquid CPU Cooler

    Instead of air cooling for your CPU, why not try a closed loop liquid cooler? Corsair’s Spec 02 case is guaranteed to work with the H80i. *You don’t need air cooling if you’re choosing to run liquid cooling! View

  • Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD

    An M.2-based NVMe SSD like the 960 EVO is a step up from basic M.2 or SATA SSDs. They offer significantly more speed, but at a higher price /GB in comparison. View

  • Samsung Ultra-Slim External CD DVD±R/RW

    External optical drives are generally just as good as their internally-mounted counterparts, and in some cases it’s necessary to go external over internal. View


This $1000 gaming PC build is going to absolutely dominate anything you throw at it in 1080p and will even let you step into some 1440p gaming as well! If ultra settings in 1080p @ 60fps is what you’re aiming for, then you’ve definitely found the right gaming PC build!

Keep in mind that the price above is for the core components only, you will still need an operating system, and any other peripherals you don’t currently have.

The 8GB GTX 1070 is a powerhouse when it comes to rendering 1080p and even 1440p. It can max anything out in 1080p and performs very similarly in 1440p. Zotac’s GTX 1070 Mini comes with great cooling, customizable RGB lighting and 5 display outputs. It’ll easily support VR headsets and will deliver 60fps+ performance in pretty much any game out.

The brand new Kaby Lake i5 7600k is well within reach with a build at this level, and that’s exactly what’s loaded into this build. That said, having a CPU that can be overclocked is nothing without a motherboard that also supports it with the proper chipset. So, that said, the Z270 chipset mobo in this build is definitely what you’re looking for when it comes to fully supporting all of your new Kaby Laky CPU’s features.

cryorig-h7If you wanted to do any kind of overclocking, then you’re going to need an aftermarket CPU cooler like the Cryorig H7. Not only that, but the i5 7600k does not come with a stock cooler – I guess Intel caught on that the stock coolers in their unlocked processors always got tossed anyways. There are other options available also, a closed water loop like the Corsair H80i would be a great upgrade in the cooling dept.

8GB of 2400MHz RAM, in a dual channel setup, from Corsair’s Vengeance LPX line is really all you really need to game with great performance. That said, if you tend to do a lot of multitasking like I do, you might want to consider upgrading to 16GB of RAM instead.

With 1.25GB of internal storage split between an SSD and an HDD, you shouldn’t run short anytime soon. You should definitely install your operating system on your SSD, as well as any games you plan on playing regularly, everything else can go on your HDD without problem.

NZXT’s S340 case is absolutely awesome, there are different colors to choose from including one that’s all white. It has lots of fan mounts for customizing your air flow, plenty of space for mounting hardware & cable management, and it looks awesome on top of everything. With that said, cases are subjective and you should definitely browse around for another ATX mid-tower case that will fit the graphics card.

If you’re on a budget of $1000, you’re in luck, because that’s the perfect amount to spend on a DIY gaming PC build. If you were to go to Best Buy and pick a prefab PC up for $1000, you wouldn’t get anything near the level of this beast.

Operating System

When it comes down to picking an operating system for this build, you have a couple of options. One is free, the other is about $100.

windows-10-homeThe best choice if you want access to the widest array of compatible programs & games is going to be Windows. There are a few different versions available, but the one you’ll want to look at is Windows 10 – especially if you want to take advantage of DirectX 12, and you do.

Your free option would be to grab yourself a copy of Ubuntu and run that. It’s a solid Linux-based OS which is widely supported by most Windows based programs and games, although you might have to run some in a program called Wine.

When it comes to actually installing your OS, you basically have 2 choices. You can either do it the old fashioned way by using the retail DVD, or you could create your own bootable flash drive. If you’re planning to use Linux you can also burn an installation DVD. For instructions on how to create your own bootable flash drive, check here.


If you don’t already have things like a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and some kind of audio, you might want to take a look at some of my suggestions. They’re hand-picked to match this budget level, and they’re all great peripherals.

  • Acer GN246HL

    A really awesome 24″ 1080p 144Hz monitor with a 1ms response time! View

  • Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum

    Romer-G mechanical switches. Customizable RGB backlighting. All-around amazing keyboard for around $120!

  • Razer Mamba Tournament Edition

    Chroma RGB lighting, very comfortable to use, great sensor accuracy. View

  • Creative Sound BlasterX H7 TE

    The Sound BlasterX H7 TE is my top rated gaming headset for under $100 for a reason!

  • Reflex Lab Mouse Pad

    Super smooth, very accurate, and extremely comfortable to use! Reflex Lab mouse pads are available in 4 sizes from your basic 9″ x 8″ right up to a whopping 36″ x 18″! View


Since the motherboard in this build comes equipped with an ethernet controller, it can easily connect to the internet via a wired connection. But, if your only option is WiFi, then you’re also going to need a WiFi adapter.

There are a couple routes you can choose. You could get a decent USB-based WiFi adapter for around $20 and it would work alright. Alternatively, you could get a more reliable internally mounted WiFi adapter for around $35.

  • TP-LINK TL-WDN4800

    Internally mounted WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz or 5GHz. View


    USB WiFi adapter. 2.4GHz View


For around $1000, this gaming PC build will last you well into the future of modern games and continue to give you a seriously incredible gaming experience. If you need to game on the highest settings then you’ve found the right build because I’ve set you up with a rig that is definitely delivering a lot of bang for your hard-earned bucks.

It’ll handle basically any game you can throw at it in 1440p on high settings or better without breaking a sweat. In 1080p, you could easily max anything out and get 60fps or better.

If you have any questions, comments, concerns or otherwise, feel free to leave them in the comment section and I’ll answer them ASAP! 

Get This $1000 Build!

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The first game I ever played on PC was Ultima Online way back in 1999, since then I've been hooked on PC gaming and putting together awesome builds! Thanks for stopping by!

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354 Comments on “The Best Gaming PC Build For Under $1000”

  1. Hey Branton,
    Im pretty much done building the pc. The only problem that I ran into is when I turn on the pc it turns on for 2 seconds and then shuts itself off a second after. This process repeats itself over and over until I shut it off from the back. All the components turn on everytime then it shuts itself off and on. My guess would be its probably one of the adapters that are in the wrong place? (My first time building a pc). Any help would be appreciated.

  2. I finally figured out what was wrong, the cpu socket wasn’t plugged in. Now my pc is up and running :] awesome build!

  3. I have a question about the type of monitor, keyboard and mouse this build can use since the suggested ones are a bit pricey. Will the ASUS VS228H-P 21.5″ Full HD 1920×1080 HDMI DVI VGA Back-lit LED Monitor work just as good as the Acer and for mouse and keyboard will the Cooler Master Devastator II Keyboard & Mouse Combo be a good substitute as well?

    1. Hey Naqaash,

      The Asus VS228H would work if you’re not wanting a 144hz monitor. Good is entirely subjective when it comes to keyboards and mice, but the Devastator II is definitely a solid combo if you’re not picky about having a mechanical keyboard, etc – it actually made #4 on my top 5 keyboards for gaming under $50 list.

  4. Hey Branton, me again :] I have a question about Wi-Fi extenders and powerline adapters, my Wi-Fi isn’t so great where I am in the house and I’ve seen people suggestion both of these.

  5. Branton, thanks tremendously for these builds! I did deviate slightly and came in at $1267 for a banging computer that has unbelievable potentail. I cant thank you enough man! Im running the xmp profile to take advantage of the faster memory, but feel Im nowhere near the need to oc the processor or video card!.

  6. Hey Branton, my dad actually ordered this one NETGEAR N300 WiFi Range Extender – Essentials Edition (EX2700) will I get a worst performance then the other one?

    1. It’s not a huge issue really, the N300 model is still fast enough to fully support any WiFi connection on 2.4Ghz, but the AC750 model supports both 2.4 and 5Ghz bands. 5Ghz is really the band you want to be using for gaming, 2.4Ghz will still work but won’t be as reliable/fast.

  7. Hey Branton,
    I’ve tried every possible solution to fix what was wrong with my build. (Kept turning on for a second and off immediately after. This process would repeat until I shut it off from the back). I found out my motherboard is the issue and now Im filing a fix for it with gigabyte. Just my luck getting a faulty motherboard.

    1. Hey Michael,

      Sorry to hear that you’ve been having issues with your build. It’s entirely possible that you received a faulty mobo, but RAM can be another cause to constant resets like you’re experiencing, have you tried running with just a single stick of RAM installed, testing both sticks individually? Another commonly overlooked fix is resetting your CMOS; start by unplugging your PC from the wall/power bar, remove the CMOS battery (a large button/coin cell battery on your mobo), hold the power button for about 10 seconds, then reseat the CMOS battery and try to boot – if there’s a BIOS issue causing your constant restarts this will clear it up.

      Otherwise, I hope your new mobo arrives soon so you can get your PC up and running sooner than later!

  8. Hi Branton, me again. For the SSD, could I buy the 250gb WD Blue SSD instead or is there a performance difference between this and the one you recommend?

    1. Hey Naqaash,

      The performance would be pretty much identical, the only real difference is that the WD Blue SSD is $10 cheaper and 25GB smaller.

  9. Hey Branton,

    I got my issues with my motherboard fixed and my computer is up and running now. I got pretty much everything you recommended as well but Im looking to purchase a headset now. Do you recommend the Audio-Technica AD700x + mic combo or the H7 TE which you have suggested here? I want a headset that has amazing sound quality and helps in games(footsteps and such).

    1. Hey Mike,

      Awesome, good to hear! I hope it didn’t take too long for your new board to get there.

      It really comes down to personal preference as there are a couple significant differences between those 2 options. The biggest difference being that the H7 TE are closed back (keeps outside sounds out and audio from the cans in) and the AD700x are open back (sound leaks both in & out but offers a wider soundstage). If you’re okay with sound leaking, Audio-Technica’s AD700x are definitely the way to go, especially for FPS games. For a mic, the Modmic 5 is awesome but pricey, or there’s the Blue iCE which is amazing if you have the desk space for it.

      Hope that helps!

  10. Alright so hi Branton,

    I am writing this because I am having trouble with my pc. It worked before but when I did something in the bios it caused this problem. The problem is it turns on for about 5 seconds then turns off and continues this process endlessly until I turn off ps. I have tried resetting cmos by taking out battery and with the paper clip method multiple times to no avail. I have also tried to move all the ram to different places with no luck as well. I honestly do not know what is wrong and am wondering if the motherboard may be dead. I have had this pc for about 1 month and this happened. If you could help that I would be extremely greatful. Anyways, thanks!
    My build:
    Corsair carbide spec 02
    Gigabyte GA-Z270XP-SLI
    Intel i5 7600k
    Gtx 1070 ftw 2
    EVGA supernova 650 g1
    x2 4gb corsair vengeance ddr4 3000MHz ram
    WD blue 1tb hdd
    Crucial mx300 275gb sad
    Cm hyper 212 EVO

    P.S. the cause to all of this trouble came from my windows 10 not wanting to do an update and I had tried multiple times contacting the tech support at windows as I think this was causing stop errors to occur. I tried changing some stuff in the BIOS and it stopped working as a result. I am quite stressed out.

    1. Hey Taylor,

      Without knowing exactly what you did in the BIOS it’s impossible for me to give any sort of accurate guess as to what could have gone wrong. It definitely doesn’t sound like your mobo is dead, though it could be… It could be that, worst-case scenario type thing, something was overclocked improperly and could potentially be damaged… Again, that’s the worst-case scenario.

      Did you turn your PC off, unplug it from the power source, and hold the power button for about 10 seconds (to drain remaining power from PC) before touching the paper clip to your clr_cmos jumper? Draining the remaining power by holding the power button is often overlooked but it has to be done in order to properly clear the CMOS. Leaving your PC plugged in and doing it can be a recipe for disaster, however…

  11. Hey Branton,

    I did not do that power button step before touching the paper clip to the power button. Does this mean my mb is screwed?

    1. Not necessarily, but you should definitely retry following those steps and then go through and triple check that every connection is fully seated. If your issue persists after doing that, there’s a good chance that something is probably broken.

  12. Okay, so what would happen if I didn’t unplug it from the power source before removing the cmos battery etc. I have tried multiple times before writing to you and may have accidentally left it plugged in at least once. To be more precise with what it’s doing:

    When I press the power button it turns on for a split second then immediately turns off. It then powers back on for about 5 seconds then turns off and repeats it endlessly till I unplug it or turn the switch off. When I remove both rams it doesn’t turn off after a split second and continues for 5 seconds then turns off and repeats endlessly. All the fans are spinning when I turn it on and when it repeats.

    I have checked all the connections and they are all secure. I have even removed and cleaned the cpu twice so I doubt it’s the CPU. If the mb is dead, what mb do you recommend me getting? I prefer not to get this mb again. Anyways thanks so much for your efforts and sorry if I am annoying you. 🙂

    1. If you didn’t unplug your PC from the power source and you switched the CLR_CMOS jumper, your mobo could potentially be wrecked – no mobo would be safe from this and the process is the same for clearing CMOS on every setup. Removing the CMOS battery with your PC supplied by power wouldn’t cause any issues, however. That said, if you haven’t tried completely draining the remaining power by holding the power button for 10-30 seconds with your CMOS battery removed, you should definitely try that – everything will spin up for a second and then go dark, keep holding the button for 10-15 seconds after that happens. Another option is to leave the CMOS battery out for a couple of hours, sometimes this will work for some unknown reason.

      That’s a typical boot loop that could be stemming from any number of potential issues, it’s a rather common error and it’s unfortunately not indicative of any single error. To test RAM, try using just a single stick in the 2nd slot – testing without RAM won’t work as your PC won’t POST without some RAM installed.

      When you say all fans, do you mean all fans? CPU cooler, GPU fans, etc? If your CPU cooler isn’t working, it could also cause a boot loop as your CPU heats up and shuts down to avoid thermal damage, over and over again.

      It could be the mobo, but it could also be your CPU or RAM as I’m assuming you tried overclocking both. Adding an excessive amount of voltage can easily kill components (sounds like what happened), regardless of the mobo used. If I were you, before I jumped on replacing the mobo I’d take your processor down to a PC shop and ask if they can test it for you – if your CPU is fried you wouldn’t want to waste $ on a new mobo. If your CPU is good it’s likely the mobo, in that instance any LGA 1151 socket, Z270 chipset mobo will work as a replacement.

  13. When I say all fans are spinning I mean all fans including gpu and CPU. After draining the remaining power do I do the cmos clear with the paper clip? I will try to go to a pc shop to test my CPU asap but right now I am leaving out the cmos battery for a couple of hours. Wish me luck!

    1. That rules out your CPU cooler being the problem.. I had really hoped that’s what it was. Yep, after draining whatever is left you clear your CMOS. I hope that it works!

  14. And also when I drain the power the pc is plugged in right? Sorry if it’s a dumb question but I want to make sure 🙂

    1. Nope, not quite. That’ll just (attempt to) turn your PC on 😛

      1.) Unplug PC
      2.) Hold power button for 10-30s
      3.) Clear CMOS

  15. Does it matter which way the cmos battery is facing? I know the words face up but does it matter which way the plus sign faces?

  16. Hi.
    Thank you for writing this article branton
    I’m new to pcgameheaven and I wanted to ask you; I currently own a pc build based on a 3770K processor ,a GTX 690 and 8gb ddr3 ram (comes with an old MB)
    I feel my system is getting old and I want to replace some parts. What is your suggestion? Is it a good time to replace my GPU? I’m certainly going to buy a new Motherboard and ssd but I’m asking if it’s necessary to replace the GPU and CPU or any other parts (I love 690 it’s something special about it I dunno what)
    And a final question (sorry for talking too much) what’s your opinion on Vega56?

    1. Hey Aaron,

      A 690 😮 I really wanted one of those when they were new, could only afford the 680 though. It’s only worth upgrading from the 690 if you’re going to get into something like the GTX 1070 or better; otherwise, believe it or not, the 4GB GTX 690 can still trade punches with a 6GB GTX 1060 (one of the bonuses of going for the best right off the bat, longevity).

      Although it is becoming a bit dated, it’s still fairly decent in terms of “old” tech. Upgrading your GPU to a GTX 1070 would give you a noticeable bump in performance, but anything less won’t really be worth it imo. Upgrading your mobo isn’t necessarily worth it either, not unless you’re going to upgrade to a new CPU (and RAM for compatibility reasons) at the same time – otherwise, you’ll just have to buy another new mobo when you do decide to upgrade your CPU. Since mobos and CPUs have dedicated “sockets” that must match up, your CPU wouldn’t be compatible with a modern LGA1151 (Intel) or AM4 (AMD) socket motherboard; nor would new CPUs be compatible with an older LGA 1155 (the socket your 3770K uses) mobo. An SSD, on the other hand, is always a great addition to any build.

      My opinion on Vega 56 is that it’s not really worth considering right now, especially not for a gaming PC. Honestly, I’ve been trying to pretend that it doesn’t exist 🙂 Not only is the price absolutely insane because of the cryptocurrency mining boom (currently around $700, barely less than a far superior GTX 1080 Ti) but its actual in-game performance is very lacking for the current asking price, less than that of a much cheaper GTX 1080 in most cases.

      Hope that helps!

  17. Hey Branton I just wanted to know if the i5 7400 would work ok or if i need the i5 7600k. I also wanted to know how much better the 7600k is than the 7400. Thanks so much for answering my questions!!!!

    1. Hey Sully,

      Going to an i5 7400 wouldn’t be a great choice, if you were going to go that route an R5 1600 + a B350 chipset motherboard would be the better choice. Check out my $1000 Ryzen 5 build.

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